November 18, 2009

Junk Runs Hard Water

Hard Water- Contains salts of calcium, magnesium and other metals; does not allow shampoo to lather freely. Usually found in wells. Not typically used in salons for shampoo services.

Our internet has been dead for the last two weeks and it was resurrected yesterday. I am sorry for neglecting you. This is week 3 of beauty school and things have been swell, but also a bummer.

We have studied ergonomics (the science of protecting ones body while working), ethics (to appropriately communicate with clients regarding everything from comfort to mixed up appointments), Bacteriology and Trichology (the study of hair diseases/disorders/knowledge of hair build, etc.) and now we are studying massage- Scientific method of the manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with the hands, fingers on an instrument.

We are mostly concentrating on this so we know exactly how to shampoo and condition hair (it is a lot more than sticking someones head in a bowl and scrubbing their hair).

Before you cut/color/perm/relax/etc. anyone's hair, you must first look for any abnormalities:
1.) Dry, dehydrated hair
2.) Dry, tight scalp
3.) Oily scalp
4.) Abnormal flaking on the scalp
5.) Open wounds/scalp irritation
6.) Scalp disorders or diseases
7.) Thinning
8.) Excessive hair found in the sink after a shampooing (usually a sign of some form of alopecia-losing hair)

The whole reason for shampooing is to "cleanse the scalp and hair by removing dirt, oils and product build-up" ["Salon Fundamentals"].

And what about those crazy capes (the kiddie one we got in our kit has penguins on it;)? There are four different capes we must learn how/when to use depending on our service. For a regular shampooing, we must use vinyl cape for the shampooing and a cloth cape for the dry service (the styling or cutting).

Unless your hair is being dyed, relaxed, permed or undergoing any chemical treatments OR there are abrasions in the hair (broken hair because of traction) hair is brushed first because tangles are removed and it stimulates blood circulation, to the scalp while removing dust, dirt and product build up.

At our school, it is a grade when we bring in a model (I brought in my mother last week and styled her hair) and we must give that model a basic hand/arm massage, cleaning manipulation facial and a scalp massage. Massaging is not a walk in the park.

When massaging the scalp, it is important to:
1.) Establish a soothing or stimulating rhythm when performing the manipulations
2.) Maintain contact with the client throughout the manipulations to maintain a relaxing experience
3.) Carry out manipulations with firm, controlled movements to maximize full benefits of the massage
4.) Keep nails at moderate length so you don't scratch the scalp (the scalp is very fragile)

There are important moves that one must master:
1.) Effleurage: Light, gliding strokes or circular motions made with the palms of the hands or pads of fingertips. This movement is often used before and after a treatment. It is used on the face, neck and arms. The Effect? Triggers relaxation.

2.) Petissage: Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles. You knead the muscles between your fingers and the thumb. You also press the palms of your hands firmly on the muscles. The Effect: Deep stimulation of nerves, muscles and skin glands. Promotes circulation of blood and lymph. This is the first and most important massage movement you learn.

3.) Tapotment: Light tapping or slapping movement applied with the fingers or partly flexed fingers. Used on arms, back and shoulders. The Effect: Stimulates nerves, promotes muscle contraction and increases blood circulation.

4.) Friction: Circular motion with no gliding used during a scalp massage or facial when less pressure is desired. The Effect: Stimulates nerves and increases blood circulation.

5.) Vibration: It is a shaking movement. Your arms shake as you touch the client with your fingertips and palms. The Effect: High stimulation.

There are many different shampoos to select from such as anti-dandruff, all purpose, Clarifying (To remove residue such as product build up), color, powder dry (for clients who have health problems that do not take well to a shampooing), etc. The list of conditioners is endless (customized shampoo to moisturize and build body, etc.).

I like to think that I'm Warren Beatty in "Shampoo". Too bad I'm....not that awesome.


"One time I introduced my orchestra as the Shampoo Music Makers instead of the Champagne Music Makers"- Lawrence Welk


Warren Beatty in "Shampoo"

-M.Junk

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